By Fareez, Voyage Manager at Rascal Voyages
There are some encounters in the ocean that stay with me long after I’ve left the water. A morning in Saleh Bay, during a family voyage aboard El Aleph, is one I will remember for a long time.
I had the pleasure of welcoming Dave, Claire, Rose and Emily aboard for a journey through the spectacular islands and waters of Indonesia’s Ring of Fire. Exploring this region brings opportunities for discovery every day, even for those of us who have spent years in Indonesia’s waters. This voyage was no exception.
El Aleph, one of Rascal Voyages’ floating villas, was our home for the journey. Built from thick teak and carrying two traditional masts, she has a character that speaks to Indonesia’s boatbuilding heritage. Her expansive foredeck is a particularly special place, with room to stretch out and watch the ocean between adventures or gather for meals in the open air, from breakfast in the morning light to dinner beneath the stars.
Despite having explored Indonesia’s marine protected areas for much of the past decade, Saleh Bay was still relatively new to me. Also known as Teluk Saleh, this bay in Sumbawa lies in the shadow of Mount Tambora. It was here that we hoped to encounter a whale shark.
On 17 July 2026, as El Aleph sailed towards the bay, anticipation began to build. Whale sharks gather around the traditional fishing platforms known as bagan, where local fishermen catch anchovies and other small fish.
There is something special about being on the water at that hour. Long before we saw a whale shark, the darkness began to soften. A faint glow appeared on the horizon, slowly revealing the silhouettes of the surrounding mountains and volcanic islands.
As the morning light began to illuminate the water, it was time to slip beneath the surface.
And there it was.
A huge whale shark glided beneath us, its distinctive white-spotted pattern visible through the water. For a moment, it was difficult to take in what we were seeing. We were sharing the ocean with an animal of extraordinary size, yet everything about its movement felt unhurried.
What struck me most was how peaceful it felt. The anticipation that had built aboard El Aleph gave way to quiet wonder as we watched it move effortlessly below us.
For nearly an hour, we stayed in the water, watching its graceful movements. It is hard to describe the feeling of being so small beside something so remarkable, or how quickly that time passed.
Fortunately, El Aleph’s chief officer, Refaya, had joined us to take photographs. We would have something to return to, although I suspect none of us needed much help remembering that morning. The pictures were also useful proof that it really had happened!
Back aboard El Aleph, it was time for breakfast as we continued towards Moyo Island. Ahead lay the jungle and turquoise pools of Mata Jitu Waterfall, but our conversation stayed firmly beneath the surface.
How does a whale shark develop its distinctive pattern of spots? How can an animal grow so large while feeding on such small organisms? And how does it know where to find its food?
One encounter had opened up a whole world of questions. For me, that curiosity is one of the most rewarding parts of a voyage. You enter the water hoping to see something extraordinary and return wanting to understand it.
These quieter moments aboard El Aleph are part of the experience too. There is time to enjoy a meal together, exchange photographs and let the morning sink in while travelling towards the next island. Our whale shark encounter was still fresh, and another adventure was already ahead of us.
As a voyage manager, I get to help people explore places that mean a great deal to me. Yet the moments I remember most are often the ones we experience together: the first glimpse of an animal beneath the surface, the disbelief afterwards, and the questions that continue long after we are back on board.
Sharing that morning with Dave, Claire, Rose and Emily reminded me why I love this work. Even after years at sea, there is still so much to discover, and so much pleasure in seeing it through someone else’s eyes.
To Dave, Claire, Rose and Emily, thank you for letting me be part of your journey aboard El Aleph. I look forward to welcoming you back for the next adventure.